Slow puncture now on rear wheel

[ramjet]

Hi. I know this is an old post, but I'm having exactly the same problem. It's sticking between the axle/driveshaft and the inner bearing face on the large side plate. Can chippyzip or anyone else detail exactly how they got round this please? I've tried some gentle hammering from the LHS side of bike through the rear wheel to no affect. I'm wary of hammering or pulling too hard as this could damage driveshaft. I've ordered a set of bearing pullers but I don't know if I'll be able to set the arms evenly onto the plate while centring on the shaft. I don't really have the facilities to make a puller like the home made one shown in the post. Any advice welcome. Thanks. Roger (X10 500)

[Dave Milnes]

Have you removed all the retaining bolts/nuts etc including the 'hidden' one under the mudguard referred to earlier and the centre hub nut and split pin?
I think applying too much brute force would more likely knacker the bearing in the arm rather than the shaft, so follow Chippy's method and apply lots of penetrating fluid.
I think knocking it from behind through the wheel is unlikely as you are not drifting the arm dead straight along the shaft, but kinking it sideways as you can't get close to the centre.
In theory with the callipers removed, the wheel itself if knocked sideways should drift the arm off as the arm is solidly spaced off the hub so try drifting the hub itself off from the other side.

[ramjet]

Yes, every fastener is removed, inc 2 mudguard screws and 2 nuts at front of plate (and shaft bolt,spacer, cage and split pin) . The plate has a bit of wiggle in it now but I think it is just between the outer and inner bearing as there doesn't appear to be any give between shaft and bearing inner. I've soaked all accessible points in WD40 for about 3 days but doubt much of this will be able to get near the seized area. As for drifting the wheel itself, again I think the problem is being able to apply pressure square on. I'll keep trying as I need new tyres on soon!

[ramjet]

Managed to get plate off using 6 inch 2/3 leg puller from ebay for 7.99 (Meant for pulling bearings, hubs etc)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Or-3-Leg-Puller-6-150MM-Gear-Hub-Bearing-3-Jaw-Internal-External-Reversible/321895462699?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Puller can be used 3 or 2 legged but due to lack of evenly spaced anchor points I had to use 2 legged. Plate started to pull off shortly after slack taken up on main screw. Didn't seem like there was much corrosion underneath but will clean and grease before reassembly. I do have a couple of photos, but am unable to attach, sorry.

ABS ring was slightly bent from earlier efforts but have gently straightened in situ with bicycle tyre lever but don't know if i'll need to replace it. Sava tyres being replaced with Avons which were the best compromise between price and name  (bought from 2 different sellers a couple of months ago)

[Dave Milnes]

I have successfully straightened ABS rings by removing completely and beating on an anvil with a rubber hammer until completely flat again. They don't have to be perfect but they do have to look perfect to the eye or the ABS light will come on.
I currently have Avon Vipers on the X9 and in the dry they are fine, in the wet I have had better but they are OK.

[ramjet]

Thanks Dave. Will test ride tomorrow and see if ABS is OK. I last had Avons on an RD500LC 34 years ago and they were very good!

[ramjet]

Success! ABS and ASR lights went out as normal, so gentle straightening of ABS disc in situ on loose wheel did the trick. I have to say that after owning about 20 sports and road motorcycles this has probably been the most difficult one to remove/replace wheels. Access and number of parts needing removed first would not be conducive to speed or ease of working. Would hate to try at roadside! But hopefully able to get on with riding the thing now!

[Mike H]

this has probably been the most difficult one to remove/replace wheels. . . . Would hate to try at roadside! But hopefully able to get on with riding the thing now!

Plugging kit while in situ, if that fails (or have none) 'phone for recovery 

There are many roads I've used where I simply wouldn't feel safe doing anything at the roadside, and of course for motorways the official advice is for everybody to leave the vehicle and go and stay behind the crash barrier. In these cases 'phone for help is only option.

[Dave Milnes]

Scooters are a pain but once done you soon get the knack. Roadside is best done with a plug kit or use 'ultraseal', 'goop' or whatever to try to avoid roadside punctures. Smart motorways would be lethal for a bike that is broken down.

[Mike H]

Had my first experience of a smart motorway in December, southern bit of the M1, was scary enough in the car!

[ramjet]

If anyone is interested I have added a couple of photos of the puller in use in the gallery/maintenance/general info folder

https://www.x9gallery.co.uk/home/displayimage.php?album=34&pid=19200#top_display_media