Front fork replacement

[BobbyW]

I have the replacement forks for my 250sl but before I start pulling the bike apart, can anyone in the tech dept advise on the procedure for removal of the old forks?
Obviously wheel out, mudguard off and brakes removed, but as she sits I can see the fork clamps in plain sight.
Is it just a case of undoing the nuts, prising the clamps open and dropping the old forks, replacement the reverse, or are there some hidden problems I need to know first.
Thanks in advance.

Second problem is the top box.
The lock has come apart, the nut sheared and the spring sprung off. I've drilled and tapped but it won't stay locked shut.
I have the barrel out but cannot remove the lock assembly from the lid.
Any suggestions other than the rubber band I'm using at the moment.

[spannerman]

To remove each fork stanchion, you may have to fully remove each of the pinch bolts from the yoke for them to slide out.

[Dave Milnes]

Somewhere way back someone once said the top box used the catch and lock from a Fiat Panda tailgate but they are rare as well now as I assume they meant the original Panda.
If having loosened the clamps and wedging them open a little if they won't pull out downwards, push them up instaead and check for a thin wire circlip in a groove at the top.
Some forks have a cap with a hex socket or nut that is just a bit too large to drop through the clamps so you have to remove this before slackening the clamp bolts. It may be under slight spring pre-load so be carefull. When you fit the new forks the cap or circlip sits into a recess in the yoke clamp so aligning both forks.

[BobbyW]

Thanks for the advice, the replacement forks have the hex cap.

[Dave Milnes]

The screw cap types are good because it's easy to change the oil or the springs or if required. Don't tip them or you will spill the oil so a bit more tricky to remove and refit.