X10 Bodywork Help - please!

[mikeX10]

Despite Roadsters help & having read MikeH's & Frankie's posting I have been unable to fathom out how to access the horn or anything else in the front. Can anyone advise please.
On the plus side I haven't broken anything & en-route did the headlamp mod which is great; and fixed the contacts of the front brake switch; and got the screen off to clean the inside. Now greasing every plastic securing tag I can find. 

In over 50 years of messing with PTW's including Wings I have never encountered anything as complex as the X10 bodywork!!! But It's great fun to ride.

Mike

[spannerman]

Robinsons had to remove the front bodywork on Beverly to do the ABS recall, the front panel was held on by those plastic to metal hidden clips, about 6 on each side, I assume on the production line they pick up the part, do some wire connecting and hit/force in the panel. So getting the front panel off would be a case of knowing where the holding points are and jerking it off.
 

[mikeX10]

Hi Spannerman. Thanks for the help. I have spent most of this afternoon reading the workshop manual & now think that I may understand it at last!!!
Will try again over the next few days & report back.
Mike

[Mike H]

To fully get into the front of X10 start by taking the screen off, then dashboard top cover, then you can take out the headlamp assembly. You may be able to reach the horn then, but sorry I can't remember if I saw mine like that.

If any side panels have to come off then you will need to remove the '>' shaped silver side trims to reveal the screws. You start that by first prising out the short silver trims that go either side of the fuel filler flap, with a flat blade screwdriver, which are only clipped in. All the remaining silver trims are fixed with screws as well as tab clips.

In addition the '>' side trims are held at the top by one screw each which is hidden behind the silver strip that goes across under the handlbars, what has the seat & fuel filler release & hazard flasher etc. buttons on it. The screws for that are accessed from inside the left and right 'glovebox' compartments, AND a centre screw, to reach which you have to remove the central plastic cover in the middle of the handlebar. Pop out its Piaggio badge to reveal its screw, and it's also held at the front by a tab clip, which can be a tight bu99er to get out until it's been greased. This is how these plastic tabs get broken off especially if the spring clips have gone rusty so be careful and be patient. A shot of WD40 will help. Grease all the tabs' spring clips on reassembly!

I soon bought a power driver as there's that many screws, it's been worth its weight in gold, makes these jobs so much quicker.

HTH

[mikeX10]

Hi
Now all sorted. Thanks Mike H & others. Not really as bad or difficult as I feared, in fact its almost interesting the way it's assembled. Screen; dash; headlamps out & I managed to reach the horn - not easy but I got there. Now have my old favourite Stebel Magnum in & working. Also bought a battery driver, sooooo much easier
Now so full of confidence going to tackle the rear end & cover the fuse connectors etc.
Mike

[Mike H]

Yes it's quite daunting to start with, but as you say it has a logic to it that soon becomes clear. Then you're whizzing panels off and on like an expert.  Quite well designed really.

[mikeX10]

Hi
Half-day to remove left side bodywork, about 15 minutes to remove the right side! I must be getting better at this
Bearing in mind that my X10 was registered late February & had just 370 miles on the clock I was surprised at the crud underneath the fuse box etc. All the connectors are just starting to corrode, so I have just got to it in time.
Now to make the 'ice-cream box' cover & extend the rear mudguard.

Mike

[Mike H]

That's the idea! 

Plus a good soaking with WD40 too.

I hope you're greasing those tabs' spring clips!

[Mike H]

On my 2nd hand blue X10 (which was written off) there was a good deal of dried mud all up underneath everywhere all over the frame, and it had totally clogged the number plate lamp! I thought the bulb had gone but no there was a faint glimmer of light from a housing that was totally stuffed. 

On the new X10 I have enlarged the 'backplate' with gaffer tape, also wrapped a small sheet of polythene around the back of the underseat luggage compartment light as that gets very corroded as well.

[Techno]

In over 50 years of messing with PTW's including Wings I have never encountered anything as complex as the X10 bodywork!!! But It's great fun to ride.

Mike

Oh boy you're not wrong there mate    Typical Italian it looks good but over complex, cheap and fragile with absolutely no thought of disassembly.  I've worked on many Jap sports and tourers including Gold Wings even though their body work is complex it's logical and held together with either expanding plastic fasteners,  Dzus Panex push twist, screws/bolts or push in rubber grommets.  These ridiculous spring clips on the X10 are crap utter crap, I'd defy even someone who knows where they are not to break one, I've broken 3 with 2 more cracked, I'm hoping they'll super glue back enough to refit, they wont be coming off again unless it's absolutely necessary