Then there were three...

[Peter T]

Had a wonderful, if a bit gusty, run out to Windermere and back today.

Mrs T never does pics from the pillion unless she's really comfy so for her to be making a little video of Orton Scar and sharing it with her mates... well it speaks volumes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUcOOpD51Pc&feature=youtu.be

There's still an issue with the centre stand to deal with, perhaps I'll re-open Holdie123's original thread on the subject.

[Peter T]

Mmm... Holdies thread only mentions an issue with the centre stand alarm which went off a couple of times today, he obviously didn't quite get to grips with it. A bigger issue is that the centre stand grounded very easily on a right hander and over a speed bump. It's not like I was getting my knee down. I need to check a few things out with it tomorrow. It was on a pretty soft pre-load which wouldn't have helped and it has a 140 60 back tyre which doesn't sound optimum but I still wonder if the stand is retracted all the way.

The stand, by the way, is not active. Not sure if it was de activated or just doesn't work but I'd like it to work. There seems to be divided opinion on the subject.

Is it like a BMW LT stand which can stand the bike up with the rider and pillion on. That would help Mrs T immensely with executing a dignified dismount  ::::::

Edit: Brilliant thread... http://x9ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=19754.0 

And another http://x9ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=19356.0   Thanks Dave.

[Peter T]

Firming up the preload did the business. Still don't like the look of the lower profile tyre, should it be a 150 70? Just waiting for more shed space before I strip down to investigate the centre stand. Mrs T has claimed garage dibs for her MG, which is fair I suppose.

[Dave Milnes]

150/70 is correct with 120/70 on the front. The evo stand has a buffer block rather than the roller so all you can do to let it go higher is to remove one of the rubber blocks so it goes a bit further but I don't know if this will cause further problems.

[Peter T]

all you can do to let it go higher is to remove one of the rubber blocks so it goes a bit further but I don't know if this will cause further problems.

I suspected as much. It looks as though the hydraulic actuator only does the lifting operation so there's no way it could be hampering return. I think once I get the correct tyre on that life will be sweet. Might be a couple of weeks before I can get the plastics off and go through your stand diagnostic check list. I'll get tyres on order in the meantime though. Very impressed with City Grips on the 250... Any other recommendations?

[unchained]

I was a lover of city grips until a couple of years ago when I started getting odd wear problems on the front of the Evo. The tread would get very distorted after just a few thousand miles and it would feel like running on knobblies and even tried to throw me off a couple of times on corners. I tried two tyres and both did the same so I have swapped to Metzeler Feel Free, which don't appear to be as long lived on the rear of the Evo, but thus far have been fine on the front. I have a City Grip still on the rear of the SL with a Feel Free on the front and that combo seems fine.

The front end of the X9's has very little weight (and grip) so any tyre problems seem amplified.

Bob

PS, I will just add that the Metzelers have been the hardest tyres I have found when fitting myself, the side walls are very solid.

[poldark]

Fitted new Dunlop Scootsmart tyres earlier this year, bought on a deal from Demon Tweaks, they're apparently based on the excellent Roadsmart bike tyres.

I'm extremely pleased with grip and especially how much quicker it turns compared to the City Grips I'd had on for many years.

The CG gave very good life, perhaps too long as although plenty of tread remained they were very squared.

No doubt the Dunlop won't last as long but I'm very happy (so far) for the far more enjoyable ride dynamics, very flickable!!

[Peter T]

Thanks for the input fellas. All taken into consideration 

[Peter T]

What's the recommended Dr Pulley weight?

[unchained]

A 2005 should be the 8 roller variator, standard rollers are 21g so Pulleys should be around 19g. I have just fitted 25x17x19g in mine and they are perfect. If it is the 6 roller variator then contact me before ordering!!!

Bob

[Peter T]

Will open it up tomorrow and check. All evidence points to 8 rollers but I'd best be sure.

There seems to be a Dr Pulley, a Mr Pulley and a TechPulley all doing sliders. Is there an issue here to be dodged? Where is the best source for the real McCoy?

[unchained]

You should be able to see if it has 3 or 4 sliding pieces with the help of something like a dentist's mirror. 90 degrees apart or 120 degrees.

There are many copies or fake Dr Pulley sliders around and a couple of now defunked websites that appear to be running. You could get them on Ebay usually from Thailand and they take a couple of weeks to get here. I got my last set from Sip scootershop, they where sent UPS and here within the week. I thought it was worth the extra couple of pounds.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/variator+rollers+dr+pulley+_sr251719

If it is the 6 roller version, I have a set with only a couple of hundred miles on, as I fitted them before realising that the terrible launch shudder was the worn brass bushing on the variator and not the original sliders I fitted 5 years ago. Hence I now have an 8 roller variator fitted with Pulleys, I bought new to replace it.

Bob

[unchained]

If you want to do the other common Mod, I believe that this is the correct K&N air filter but I would wait for Dave to confirm before ordering (When he's back from up your way!):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-N-33-2865-Replacement-Performance-High-Air-Flow-Panel-Filter-Audi-Seat-VW/382760874499?fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3AScirocco&epid=10034033973&hash=item591e537203:g:UfwAAOSwtGtcWCOx

Bob

[Peter T]

How many miles had your original variator covered? This one is on 10000

You should be able to see if it has 3 or 4 sliding pieces with the help of something like a dentist's mirror. 90 degrees apart or 120 degrees.

Plan

Perhaps I can feel around the edge. Having said that, I'll probably strip the transmission down anyway as it's been sat for a while, worth checking for corrosion on the conical plates I would have thought.

An A3 Filter? Who'da thought. My son has one sitting outside the house  

I was doing a search for modifications last night (mainly looking for rear peg mods) and came across a thread by Dave suggesting that the filter box innards can be chopped about to improve airflow. Unfortunately, the pics didn't seem to make it from the old server. Is this still considered benificial practice?

[Peter T]

Well, I didn't get round to taking the transmission cover off as I  got bogged down with replacing discs on our CMax. Then tyres and other service items arrived.

Having troubled the forum for opinions on tyres I went with CGs again, as I found a deal too good to refuse. I haven't had trouble with them and I like the wear I've got on the 250 so we'll see how they go. The Pirelli on the back really had no business being there, totally wrong profile.

Changed the plug for an iridium, I'm astonished it was running with about 1.25 mm gap.

Nice day of spannering, think I'll take a 

[Dave Milnes]

33-2092 is what I have written in my notebook for K&N filter.
Dimensions are on this ad
https://www.amazon.co.uk/33-2092-Replacement-Air-Filter/dp/B000E5Q5Q4

[Peter T]

Thanks Dave, the numbers match an ad on ebay but your amazon filter is £8 cheaper. Only one remaining...

Do you remember posting pics of other mods in the air box? Was there a significant improvement?

Edit: Bought.

[Dave Milnes]

Have a look here, it's simply removing the inlet rubber tube and opening up the outer hole to accept a larger inlet tube made from a pipe removed elsewhere and fitted the opposite way around and cut short so it isn't pressing against the transmission casing.
https://www.x9gallery.co.uk/home/thumbnails.php?album=244
If it does anything it makes part throttle opening a little more instant rather than an overall increase in performance. No extra noise.

[Peter T]

Brilliant. I copied the gallery links into your original thread in Mods.

[Peter T]

Spent a while this afternoon following Dave's diagnostic checklist for the centre stand and found numerous dry connections but the most puzzling is this:



Am I right in thinking that the cam which pushes the switch is misshapen and should be activating the switch in this, the stand up, position? Perhaps someone bent it away from the switch to mechanically de-activate the alarm?

The switch connectors had both snapped so I soldered directly to the terminals but the switch is still pretty intermittent. Looks like a sealed unit, has anyone had luck servicing one of these?

[bustupbiker]

sorry image too small for my old eyes to see

[Peter T]

Better?

I found a brand new switch on fleabay being miss sold for £20 as a side stand sensor 

[bustupbiker]

Thanks kind Sir much more betterful.

[Mike H]

Is the switch push to make or push to break? To me it looks like switch is activated to indicate stand is retracted.

Could use something that looks like, tried eBay?

[Dave Milnes]

Push to break IIRC. One switch turns the pump motor off when the stand is up enough to rock over fully deployed, the other to make sure the stand is fully up when riding or it sounds an alarm.