First ride out after isolation

[BobbyW]

Having cleared the spiders out, washed her down and checked the tyres, I went for a short spin on the 250sl.
She started straight away and I had an enjoyable 15 minutes.
The MoT is due in November and I have my doubts as to her getting through.
First off every time I get a "front forks misting" advisory.
I just can't do that job myself or afford a garage to do it which is why it's been the same for 3 tests.
Then I have "tyre valves perished"
Rear wheel off on the 250sl is a nightmare.
Now I have a soft left hand brake lever (almost to the bars) and (sorry, I was mistaken Bob, no brake light) or starter on the left lever... right is fine.
The fuel light remains on and the gauge is showing empty.
To be honest, much as I love the old girl, I'm considering parking her on the front lawn and using her as a planter

[Peter T]

First off every time I get a "front forks misting" advisory.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIAGGIO-X9-250cc-2002-FRONT-FORKS-NO-LEAKS/303624234136?hash=item46b16a2498:g:SSwAAOSwV7tfDux3

Your brake lines are probably full of brown gunge. Can I post you a guide to bleeding? it's a lot easier to bleed the back if the back wheel is off, then you could replace the valve

Fuel light isn't an MOT issue and gauges are a very new fangled extravagance anyway. I rode my SL 5000 miles with no idea how much fuel was in. I did top it up every now and again to be fair. 

[BobbyW]

Your brake lines are probably full of brown gunge. Can I post you a guide to bleeding? it's a lot easier to bleed the back if the back wheel is off, then you could replace the valve

Thanks Peter, I've ordered the forks and yes please I'd appreciate a bleed guide. By post do you mean email, snail mail or online post ?

I say wheel off is a nightmare because I have the non split replacement exhaust which means removal from the cylinder rather than just the silencer.
The fuel gauge problem is not affecting me, I run on the trip meter and always top up after 100 miles, It's the amber fuel light constantly illuminated that annoys the tester (he's a bit of a jobsworth)

[Peter T]

Damn... Until this morning I had an SL I could have taken pics of  And, come to think of it, I think the caliper is on the wrong side to bleed with the wheel off which doesn't help. I'll sort some pics out this evening as I can't find a definitive guide to bleeding the linked brakes here. I may not be looking in the right places of course.

I sympathise greatly with your need to disconnect the whole exhaust... Tough break.

Try a little square of black tape over the offending warning light until you manage to fix it.

[Peter T]

Coppermine is telling me that i've exceeded my disc quota so I have to summarise this with only one photo.

Here goes:

Remove the cover next to the left lever, this reveals the brake reservoir. My SL had the comms control unit there.

Remove the two screws and the lid, this reveals a rubber concertina thingy which seals the reservoir and keeps the fluid free from air moisture. remove this carefully and have an absorbent rag handy. Paint really doesn't like brake fluid.

Under here you'll find the fluid. A transparent turkey baster is good for sampling it and checking condition and, if the fluid is brown the baster can be used to get as much out as you can. Keep it in a jar for disposal later, you'll need the jar soon. Once the reservoir is empty you can wipe out residual crud and add fresh Dot 4  fluid. Replace the rubber concertina or the fluid will squirt out when you try to bleed the brakes.

You should do the rear caliper first but I've only got a pic of the front.

Locate the bleed nipple (ooer Matron) It's the nut with a rubber cap (ooer Matron)

Next you need to create a set up like this:



Make sure you have the correct sized combo spanner or you're guaranteed to round off the nipple. Fit the spanner first then attach the tube. Its easy to snap the nipple off so place your little finger at the open end of the spanner and your thumb at the ring end to give more sensitivity when you first crack the seal. Quarter of a turn should be enough to release the brake fluid into the tube.

The tube you see in the pic is one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Car-Brake-Bleeder-Clutch-Bleeding-Tool-One-Way-Valve-Tube-Kit/363062076787?hash=item54882fa573:g:Y~EAAOSwWuxfInM-

(others are available)

If you now pump the brake lever repeatedly, the fluid will come out in spurts (matron) If the brakes haven't been bled for a while, the fluid will be brown, like coffee and you will probably get bubbles in the tube. This is what is making the lever spongy because the air compresses in the brake line, nice clean fluid won't. You might not get bubbles at first but sometimes they hide, keep trying. The valve in the bleed kit stops the air and coffee from being drawn back into the caliper. Every five or six pumps of the lever, check inside the reservoir and top up the fluid or you'll end up pumping air in which kind of defeats the object. The job is done when the fluid runs clear and there are no more bubbles. Tighten up the nipple (little finger at the open end so you don't overdo it) At some point the tube will miss the jar and squirt you in the groin and you'll jump and knock the jar over onto your favourite suede loafers and you'll say rude things. Be prepared for this inevitability.

Now (having done the rear first) do the front. When you're happy with that, top up a final time and replace the reservoir lid and cover. Now check the other front calliper (right hand lever)

You can do this job with a simple length of plastic tube and no bleed valve but it needs more patience and probably an assistant unless you have orangutan arms like me. An old battery breather tube is about right for the Job.

The process is the same but requires you to open and close the nipple to prevent air returning into the system.

We'll do this by numbers as it's important to get the sequence right

1. Pull the lever.
2. Open the nipple and wait for the fluid/bubbles to stop.
3. Close the nipple
4. Release the brake lever.

Repeat the process checking the reservoir level as you go.

If you can persuade an assistant to do the lever work whilst you do the spannering it helps a lot. Make your instructions to pull/release/check level clear and be nice or they won't help again.

And that's about it.      

Oooh... If you've been through this and you're still not happy that the brakes are really firm: Try wrapping a bungee tight around the brake lever and leaving it overnight. I don't know why it works but it sometimes does.

Ooh... and dispose of the crap in the jar in an environmentally sound manner. Get rid of the extra fluid too as it absorbs moisture from the air rendering it unfit to use.

Hope that helps.

[BobbyW]

The weather has really been against me since the last report, however the forks have arrived and will be fitted as soon as I can find an undercover area to work.
The brake switch is replaced so that's all working now and the brakes bled with very little trouble, plenty stopping power now.
One thing is when I opened the reservoir, there was no rubber concertina thingy and I'm now leaking fluid. Can I bodge something or do I need a part?
Other than that I'm a happy bunny.......Just the Headliner to replace, Head Gasket, water pump, and Oil Rail to change on the Rover 45 now.

[Peter T]

I don't know of a bodge for the concertina gasket thing but I don't think I'd want to bodge it anyway (and I'm the bodge-meister general) It forms a seal on the surface of the fluid so that it can't absorb moisture from the air in the reservoir, as well as curing your leak problem. I can't find the gasket as a part number in its own right though I'm happy to be corrected. You might be best checking a breaker. It's probably common to a few models.

[BobbyW]

Found one on ebay but it looks like I have to order a complete set of rubbers at £22. I found the single in Germany for £4 but they have a minimum order of £25.
Emailed the ebay seller to see if he has a single....not banking on it though.

[Dave Milnes]

Whole master cylinders can be got for around £20 off Ebay and keep the other bits as spares. Not sure if the gaskets are handed, is one corner chamfered? If so you need to get the same side as the missing one. All models are the same as far as I know, this bit will be anyway and the levers are.

[BobbyW]

Thought it best to go for a new rubber Dave, they aren't handed. Had to be the whole kit of seals but at least I'll have the spares now if needed.

[BobbyW]

OR SO I THOUGHT.

Not the right on that was listed, too small.
Not a rear brake master cylinder to be found anywhere, they're all right handed.
Next idea is to make my own.

[Dave Milnes]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Piaggio-X9-Evolution-Evo-250-Rear-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Lever-Assembly/284048951489?hash=item4222a308c1:g:TJEAAOSw0p5fjBhk
is a rear.

[BobbyW]

Nice one Dave, I've ordered it. Thanks

[BobbyW]

Victor Meldrew here
I don't belieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeve it!

On the left is the 250SL the right the 250 EVO
3 choices left
.
1. Sell the bloody scooter
2. Sell the bloody brake unit
3.Swap the whole sodding thing over

I've gone for No.4 cut a gasket out of a toilet roll inner, put it together and forget about it till next Spring (if I'm spared). 

[Dave Milnes]

My 500Evo is exactly like the one on the left so same as 250SL, so I wonder if that advertised reservoir wasn't actually from an X9 and they made a mistake or they were fooled by the X9 marking when that is nothing to do with Piaggio, or even if it was a non OEM replacement already fitted before they scrapped the bike for parts. In which case send it back and get a refund.

[Mike H]

You can get rubber sheets off eBay, various thicknesses.

[BobbyW]

I'm done with ebaying now Mike...If push come to shove I'll weld it
Sending it back now Dave. Just need to find a neighbour with a printer for the label...sheeeesh,

[Dave Milnes]

I wonder if Solo has a brake reservoir, he was trying to clear out a load of stuff the other week?

[BobbyW]

I wonder if Solo has a brake reservoir, he was trying to clear out a load of stuff the other week?

I've gone down the home made route now, I found a rubber exercise band that will do the trick, a pretty green one.

[bustupbiker]

Check a bit first with some ( a spot ) of brake fluid in case it ripples it..and don't forget the air slits..so do not seal it completely..look at the rubber difragum  / seal of the OE one,,,see the slits to allow the air pressure to get to the top of the seal and not let air/moisture into the fluid area ..Just a thought.. 

[BobbyW]

MoT today, passed with some advisories as expected.
I wiped the front forks so no misting (I have replacements to go on)
Steering headbearing notchy....stuck outside in all weathers going nowhere for a year, I'd be notchy.
Rear shock misting (Hopefully find some decent rear shocks pattern or oem.)
Rear tyre getting low.(been putting off taking that wheel off due to the faf with the exhaust.)
My toilet roll reservoir repair held up to scrutiny

[Dave Milnes]

Plenty to do next summer then but at least able to ride it as well

[Peter T]

 

[BobbyW]

Found the solution for my rear shock. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhVveWfIFZk       

[BobbyW]

Time flies when having fun.
Who would believe a year has gone by already. MoT due again, I've still not changed the forks, rear shocker or rear tyre, and Steering head bearing will still be notchy. Trusting to luck again.
I started the old girl and set off on a test run, came to a tight left hander and shot straight across.
That will teach me to check the tyre pressure more often than once a year. (front down to under 10psi)
Good job I carry a 12v pump under the seat, pumped it up to pressure, checked the rear too and all is good.
Getting too cold to play mechanics and my shed is too small.