Starting x9 500sl

[jewls]

Hi all,
Can somebody help me,
I have recharged my key from the master twice,
 
A warning light has come up indicating rear brakes,
Would this stop it starting 
I also replace the battery but it had a different CCA ( 190 ),
Should it been the same as the old one?,
I have replaced the rectifier as the new battery blow the old one.

Anybody got any suggestions on why it will not start.

Julian

[Dave Milnes]

The battery shouldn't make any difference as long as it is powerful enough to turn the motor over. On the SL there is a digidash warning for failed brake light bulbs but this is not a problem that should prevent the engine starting, it's simply a warning that one or more of the 5 small T5 bulbs have failed in the lamp. The brake light circuit should be working though to start the engine so if the motor won't turn over try the other brake lever as if the brake light switch isn't working on one side the motor won't crank.
As for keys, as long as the immobiliser LED goes off when you turn on the ignition the engine should start.

[jewls]

Hi Dave, thanks I will try that and get back to you

[jewls]

Hi Dave,
Sorry to ask you again but where are the t5 bulbs on my bike?

[jewls]

Hi Dave,
I forgot to say that when I put the new battery on my bike and ran it for a short time, then it stopped and found that I have blown the rectifier so the battery CCA is to large for the scooter.
I bought a second hand one which it started up then stopped.

Juklian

[Dave Milnes]

The T5 lamps are in the brake light. Remove the rear centre panel then remove the brake light and you will see a row of 5 twist caps on a PCB that hold the bulbs, (same as on car dashboards), and if 2 or more of these have blown the lamp lights on the digidash every time you pull a brake lever.
Always worth checking that the brake light switches are working as if they aren't or one side (the one you like to use) isn't, then it won't start.
Just to clarify...is the motor turning over or is there no power to the starter motor?
Cranking OK but not starting is a more difficult thing to diagnose than a complete lack of cranking. No cranking is usually either side stand or kill switch or brake light switches.

[jewls]

Hi Dave,
I have changed all 5 bulbs in the back but it fired up and ran for a short while then stopped.
Could it be starvation on fuel?
Petrol is about 4/5 months old.
Is there any way the fuel pump not working

Julian

[Dave Milnes]

Being FI I think if the pump wasn't working, it would not start at all.
How long does it run before stopping? If you touch nothing does it run longer than if you try revving it? Does it start up again straight away?

[jewls]

Hi Dave,
It runs for about 1 minute and stops and will not start again.
My battery ive  managed to recharge it and its holding its charge.
I will have another fiddle tomorrow and see what happens.

Julian

[Dave Milnes]

Something heat related would be my guess then. It may be the fuel pump. Try filling the tank to the top so submerging the pump fully in cooling fluid. If it then runs longer, I'd remove and investigate the pump. It sounds more like a physical mechanical problem than an electrical as they either work or don't, and overheating of the pump I would class as mechanical.
When it stalls, turn off the power and remove the plug and see what colour it is as a guide to whether it is leaning out or becoming over rich prior to stopping.
Is there a way to keep it running ie: holding the throttle wide open or does it stop regardless? I am thinking it is not going off 'choke' and flooding. This would point to the temperature sensor that feeds the ECU. A good 500 will warm up if left idling fairly quickly so soon go off enrichment. The sensor is the device on the cylinder head with (IIRC) a green wiring connector (4 pin). Two pins feed the ECU and two feed the gauge.

[jewls]

Hi Dave,
I have changed the coil, starting relay and checked or changed any fuses that require, new spark plug, second hand rectifier, second hand rear brake lights and got power to the rear brake lights, checked all the switches on the handle bars all ok.
But there is still no spark!! ,
Could it be the 3 phase generator causing the problem?

Julian

[jewls]

Hi Dave,
I have checked the generator and I have found its knackered, what sort of a job to change it? Do I need any special tools at all, I have not done this thing before any help would be gratefull.

Julian

[Dave Milnes]

Strange it's the stator causing the problem as mine failed at 2 years old but the bike still ran until the battery died. A jump start had it going again for 20 miles to get me home. Unlike the smaller motors the 500 doesn't have a spark trigger winding on the stators, it's purely a 3 phase charger. The engine should run with it disconnected if the battery is good.
It's an engine out job as you cannot extract the cover with the engine in place as the frame is in the way, also the water and oil need draining and the filter removing plus you need a new gasket for the cover and water pump.

[jewls]

Hi, how do I split the to halves to get the cover free?

[Dave Milnes]

When the engine is clear from the frame the oil needs draining and the filter removing then take off the black water pump cover so you can turn the pump. The front exhaust pipe needs twisting in it's clamp to give a bit more room to extract the cover. Mine turned without having to actually undo the bolts after a soaking in penetrating oil.
Then around the outer edge of the cover are around 10 8mm bolts of various lengths to remove then there are few difficult to spot ones, one up under the oil filter flange, and a couple down holes. Once all are out the cover should pull away from the side of the engine. There is no need to dismantle any of the actual engine parts.
The stator is bolted to the inside of the cover and the wiring routed under a plate and out via a grommet in the cover flange.
Clean all the old gasket off both the cover and the crankcase and use a new gasket. I applied a thin smear of red Hermatite to the crankcase face and stuck the gasket on then by the time I was ready to re-fit the cover it stayed put and made it easy. You have to rotate the water pump so it engages the slot on the shaft and the cover then sits flush. The coils sit inside the concave flywheel so it's important to centre the cover perfectly and also fit the new coils carefully as it's a blind fitting so you can't tell it's not right until the engine starts up, then it's all to do again!

[jewls]

Hi Dave,
Thanks for all the information but I still can't get the cover off,
I've removed all the bolts, air box must of the back to try and pry the cover off,
Have I mist anything else.

Julian

[Dave Milnes]

Have you got the one hidden up under the oil filter shroud and the one down the hole?

[jewls]

Yes I've found that one which was holding the cover on,
When I took the cover off a spring fell out but I found out where that came from,
Got the cover back after putting the new stator on,
Oil and water in now but still will not start..

Julian

[Dave Milnes]

Have you connected all the loom plugs and also the TDC sensor which has the long black cable that coils around and sits loose on top of the motor? Check the connections to the throttle body and make sure the earth strap has been re-connected.