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Author Topic: Tyre change , wheel off problem ?  (Read 8712 times)
r1speeedyrider
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« on: March 31, 2020, 17:16:08 »

Hi, just tried to remove the wheel of my 350 for the 1st time, all went well until i tried pulling off the wheel after removing silencer, rear calipers, spindle nut and undoing shock,mudguard, swingarm bracket. It seems that the bracket bearing inner is stuck to the spindle. I tried some force against the wheel to push it off but didnt want to damage the bearing so stopped trying after a while. Maybe I missed something, anyone got some advice ? BTW this is my 1st scooter as Ive been used to working on bigger standard bikes. Thanks.
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Mike H
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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2020, 17:49:42 »

See this topic, http://x9ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=26258.0

Bearing is likely rusted on, lots of penetrating fluid and brute force to get it off, or fabricate a puller, but be aware, DO NOT bend the slotted ring for the ABS sensor, this has been done! Non-functioning ABS afterwards is the result...

http://x9ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=26265.0






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Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.
r1speeedyrider
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« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2020, 19:39:49 »

Looks like I should order a new  bearing then just in case I damage it. Anyone know an alternate to the piaggio original or dimensions to cross reference.i dont want to pay 3 times the price for the Piaggio one.
   So far I've found 6303 2RS bearing with dimensions of  47x17x14.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2020, 21:04:20 by r1speeedyrider » Logged
ramjet
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« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2020, 08:22:13 »

I had the same problem with my 500. Solution was a 2/3 legged puller used in 2 leg mode (Less than £10 on ebay) Didn't need much force to release the wheel as it pulls it evenly. Picture here

https://www.x9gallery.co.uk/home/displayimage.php?pid=19202#top_display_media

When putting it back together be careful to make sure the retaining pin for the silencer strap is secure (Duct tape or tighten strap round it with pliers) as otherwise it falls out easily and you have to take it all apart again. Good luck!
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ramjet
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« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2020, 08:42:03 »

This is the puller I bought. Needs to have long arms. Bonus is it's only 7.99

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Or-3-Leg-Puller-6-150MM-Gear-Hub-Bearing-3-Jaw-Internal-External-Reversible/321895462699?hash=item4af276f72b:g:cswAAOSwYHxWIU8y

I too came from a succession of bigger sports type bikes and the X10 is a bit of an eye opener. Every job you have to do involves awkward access and removing lots of parts. I'm currently using lockdown to do a few jobs. I've just removed all the bodywork which I've previously avoided. Not much fun but kind of satisfying when completed!
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Mike H
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« Reply #5 on: April 02, 2020, 15:12:43 »



Got a puller like that somewhere, or I hope I still have, got it years ago. Rarely used but when you need it you need it. 


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Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.
Mike H
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« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2020, 15:25:51 »

Quote
I'm currently using lockdown to do a few jobs. I've just removed all the bodywork which I've previously avoided. Not much fun but kind of satisfying when completed!

Sure I've mentioned this before, I got a battery power driver and a set of Torx bits, speeded up the process enormously.



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Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.
ramjet
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2020, 15:42:53 »

I did have my power driver handy but ended up not using it as I was changing bits too much. A right angle adapter might have helped though. But some access is just ridiculous though eg the screws on underside of luggage rack area. Half the time though the challenge is where the last screw is hidden! Even using workshop manual and helpful guides from here you still don't know if all screws have been removed from a part before you have to haul at the tabs! Managed to break just a couple out of dozens but hopefully should be able to glue before reassembly
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Mike H
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« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2020, 14:46:14 »

Don't know about changing bits too much, from memory there's pretty much just two screw sizes, mostly, anyway I didn't have a problem with this. I did my usual trick of of having an old icecream tub, chuck everything in there including all the bits I needed. I got a Bosch driver and yes it has a right-angle adaptor for it, and very useful it is too, could even get it under the hand rails / rack arms, if only just. But two screws under there I could never get to with it, so just left them out. But it sure beats doing everything with a set of right-angled Torx keys, half a turn at a time, which was doing my head in!

I'm convinced the snap-in tabs are designed to break off, as the root is much too thin. I'm sure this is to make you buy a replacement panel for loadsa money, especially if it's one of the coloured ones. When I stacked my blue X10 I was looking at replacing all the damaged bodywork bits (this was before I discovered that the frame was all bent to bu99ery and back) and when compiling a shopping list I noticed that the parts on the extreme outside, for example the transparent bits on the outside front edges of the legshields and the chrome strips which go along the rear quarter panels, seem to be the most expensive! 

These are the bits that will hit the ground first, moral, do not allow your X10 to fall over


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Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.
r1speeedyrider
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« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2020, 12:20:33 »

I fixed in the end, I just left it to the next weekend, and over the course of the week I WD40'd the various sides of the wheel that looked like they might be rusted. It came off pretty easily and the bearing didn't need to be replaced as no excessive force was needed.
   I managed to clean everything up and even sort the parking brake that wasn't functioning due to missing bolt holding the cable to the bracket plus dirty caliper bracket sliders and pistons.
 Next job will probably be the belt replacement so I'll need to get the holding tools sorted first, any options that are cheaper than the Piaggio ones ?
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ramjet
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« Reply #10 on: April 09, 2020, 08:50:38 »

I've just done mine. Bought a cheap tool off ebay (visible in first photo) , but in the end I used my electric impact driver which removed variator and clutch nuts without needing holder. Good videos on YouTube for X10 and MP3 belt replacement (Same engine/drive) I bought the Piaggio 'Smart Kit' which also includes replacement variator rollers and guides

http://www.x9gallery.co.uk/home/displayimage.php?album=1090&pid=19361#top_display_media

https://www.x9gallery.co.uk/home/displayimage.php?album=1090&pid=19362#top_display_media

https://www.x9gallery.co.uk/home/displayimage.php?album=1090&pid=19363#top_display_media

https://www.x9gallery.co.uk/home/displayimage.php?album=1090&pid=19364#top_display_media

(Tried to insert photos from gallery here but still no luck hence hyperlinks!)


                                                                                                                                                      
« Last Edit: April 09, 2020, 12:24:31 by ramjet » Logged
Mike H
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« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2020, 13:50:05 »

Excellent. 
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Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.
r1speeedyrider
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« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2020, 14:38:14 »

Anyone used non Piaggio belts ? I found info about opinions on them as original as being best, but no info on JT belts. M&P are selling JT at £56.99 and originals at £49.99. I assume it would be safer to opt for the original for longevity ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Piaggio-350-X-10-Executive-4T-4V-ie-2013-JT-Max-KVR-Scooter-Drive-Belt/133036617800?hash=item1ef999b048:g:SpgAAOSwJzpcxrwbe

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-PIAGGIO-PIAGGIO-X10-350-83025R-V-Belt/143392126204?hash=item2162d634fc:g:8lMAAOSwkwhdiOkj
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2020, 20:41:57 »

Not sure about belts for the 350 but for the 500's the OEM Mitsubishi ones are the best, not just for longevity but in that they fail less catastrophically. OEM belts give way slowly with warning prior to failure where as so called performance options seem to just give out without warning at just the recommended mileage or even less. As I said MItsuboshi are the OEM supplier for 500 models but I believe for the smaller bikes other manufacturers are the OEM suppliers. I would stick to OEM at least if this is your first belt change and examine the belt you remove gainst the mileage it's covered and determine whether it's badly worn or still has mileage left in it. See if you can still make out any markings on it as to what brand it is.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
r1speeedyrider
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« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2020, 08:05:15 »

Thanks, I was leaning to the OEM. I bought the bike with 5400 miles on a 2015 plate so it will be the original belt. One shock was the date of the tyres on the bike as they were dated 2012 despite being a 2015 bike, so I still have an eight year old front tyre on it.
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2020, 11:31:31 »

It might be the case thet the bike was new old stock and was 3 years old before it was actually sold. Maybe a check on the VIN number might reveal the actual date of manufacture might match the tyres, unless the previous owner shod it with used part worn tyres at sme point.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
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