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Author Topic: Rear shock replacement.  (Read 14445 times)
Noggin the Nog
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« on: February 04, 2017, 22:22:42 »

Hi.

Just wondering what the degree of difficulty is for replacing the rear shocks?

Is it possible to do it without removing the body panels? (I have ratchet spanners to fit).

With the bike up on the centrestand, is the transmission just hanging off the shocks or is there some kind of travel stop?

TIA.
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Expat47
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« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2017, 07:33:37 »

Page 282 of the "Service Station Manual" tells all. It seems one of our members has given us a link.
http://www.wotmeworry.org.uk/manuals/Piaggio%20X10/X10%20350ie%20Exec/
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Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2017, 09:31:58 »

Yeah, ta, got that.

Just wondering if there's any shortcuts.
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Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2017, 10:05:29 »

Doh! Why didn't I l;ook under the saddle earlier?

Despite what page 282 says about removing panels to replace the shocks., there appears to be good access to the upper anchorages through the covers in the rear of the underseat bucket.

Got to be worth a try.

btw: I ordered a pair off that "Numberworth" seller on ebay.
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Mike H
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« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2017, 13:15:56 »

Keyhole surgery, can't stand it.

 

I'd have it all off. Done it so many times already, can do it in me sleep. Whizz it all off. Bosch rechargeable power driver, zzz! zzz! zzz! done. Really glad I bought that.


.
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Mike H
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« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2017, 13:33:10 »

PS: while you're in there, fix up something to cover in the underside of the fusebox.

PPS: when you put it back together, DON'T forget to plug in the rear lights and indicators. (Yes I did and yes it had to come apart again.)

 


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Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2017, 16:10:07 »

PS: while you're in there, fix up something to cover in the underside of the fusebox.






Good point. I still need to do that, and make up an extender for the front fender too.
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Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2017, 16:43:42 »

So that's what they're supposed to look like!
Mine are manky and brown and seized and ...........



(not bad at the price too)
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2017, 11:06:36 »

Give them a good soaking in ACF50 or FS365 etc before fitting and keep them sprayed after each wash. If they are OEM they will go just the same.... or just keep them for summer use and put the manky ones back on each winter.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
Mike H
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« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2017, 13:50:27 »

This is what I had to do with mine - only 1 year old, and not taken out in the wet if I can help it:


Topic: Suspension Rant
http://www.x9ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=25647.msg279346#msg279346


.
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Mike H
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« Reply #10 on: February 08, 2017, 13:53:26 »

Good point. I still need to do that, and make up an extender for the front fender too.

Gaffer tape might do at a pinch, BUT fusebox plastic will have to be as clean as poss. Also won't stay stuck on forever.



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Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2017, 16:27:55 »

Give them a good soaking in ACF50 or FS365 etc before fitting and keep them sprayed after each wash. If they are OEM they will go just the same.... or just keep them for summer use and put the manky ones back on each winter.

I may use the old ones as a template to send to Hagon to see if they could make a pair in stainless -  their "Nitro" spec. I have these on the Guzzi and, as they are made to your requirements for weight/adjustability etc they are well worth it and last a lifetime.
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Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2017, 17:55:28 »

Finally got around to doing the shocks today, by the keyhole method. Only took about an hour to do the shocks. A little longer to get everything back together as I repainted the exhaust with high temp paint.

The old shocks are a bit rusty but still usable if anyone wants them for a project. I managed to free the adjusting collars off in the end.

While doing a final  inspection​ I noticed that the rubber bush( silent block?) just behind the oil filter is what would be described in engineering circles as a "rattling good fit" in the metal cylinder where it sits. I looks OK but I'm wondering if it should touch the (outer) sides all the way round?
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2017, 20:42:18 »

The 'silent blok' has an outer steel shell that press fits into the frame but the rubber bush inside this has a couple of cutouts and isn't a solid mass. The outer ring has a 'notch' that goes in a specific position so that the voids in the bush allow movement in a specific direction. They can seem a bit supple but as long as the rubber isn't perished and the inner sleeve is still fairly central in the bush and hasn't sagged it should be OK.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2017, 20:58:40 »

Nothing sagged and thi is a solid tapering disc, no cutouts.. Just a wee bit to small for the housing.
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« Reply #15 on: May 08, 2017, 21:20:51 »

Mine is exactly the same! So obviously deliberate.

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Noggin the Nog
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« Reply #16 on: May 09, 2017, 07:59:31 »

Mine is exactly the same! So obviously deliberate.



That'll do for me. Thanks.
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