Or in reality, annual service... it now being 1 year old.
Subtract 830 from the below, which was the so-called 1,000 km service ~ OK it went a bit over that time.
From my 'to do' list:
1. Engine oil and filter change, + drain the 'mayonnaise' trap hose. Fit new sump drain washer. I can now see a possible reason why this is copper not aluminium, as there's quite a bit of ally corrosion in the area.
Albeit not at full mileage yet, nevertheless oil was quite a bit dirty looking...
Refilling technique... funnel with a long Honda crankcase breather hose attached... as it happens, or any suchlike thin-walled 10mm tubing...
Note manual is wrong (or mine is), says 1.5 litres, if you try to do that it ends up on the floor, which is what happened to me the first time!
Most I can get in is 1.2 litres then it's right up to max. on the dipstick. Can check again after running engine (new filter) but hasn't gone down.
Oil filter is easily removed with a chain wrench, and if the new one is the Hi-Flo brand it can be tightened with the handle of the suspension 'C' spanner in the slot in the end of the cartridge. Do not need to remove the footboard under panel to do this, just lie on the floor then it's all accessible.
2. Renew sparking plug. First time it's been out since factory, and quite tight. The provided toolkit leverage tool for the toolkit plug spanner socket thingy just bent. Fortunately I also had a tommy bar and that worked, in conjunction with its long box spanner over it (both were bought as a set) as a 'handle' and for extra leverage. However the toolkit plug spanner/socket itself is good, making a firm grip on the plug plus internal protective rubber grommet. This makes it easy to unscrew and replace, if the plug is inserted in the socket first. The plug has two earth electrodes, and wear on the centre electrode was evident in that it was becoming oval, i.e. eroding where adjacent to the earth electrodes.
3. Oil centre stand pivots. Also some of the swing arm too. WD40 on springs, electrics and so on. (Other brands are available!)
4. Clean belt compartment filter... release the rear end of footboard under panel and pull it back as shown below, to get access to the lower front M-8 bolt. The upper front M-8 bolt is accessible through the engine 'hatch' opening (pic above), using a small open-ended M-8 spanner, if a bit fiddly. Otherwise I could use my cordless power driver on all the others. There is also a long bolt in the middle of the plastic cover that needs an Allen key. Can't remember the exact size, 5 or 6mm, -ish.
^ Hardly dirty at all really, but went through the motions anyway, and gave it a going over with the vacuum cleaner.
5. Inspect coolant, brake fluid, brake pads. Coolant was down to min. To be honest I hadn't checked it for some while! Brakes pads thickness can be seen fairly easily by squinting along the plane of each brake disc. Elsewhere I've posted about cleaning and greasing the caliper pistons (with Brembo grease) to prevent them seizing and causing the pads to bind on the disc(s). On my blue X10, 2 years old, ALL were affected; binding was so bad wheels could not be turned by hand when raised off the floor! For the white X10, when it was new (last year), I did this as a preventative measure. Seems to be working... all pads still equal thickness and wheels revolve freely. Ditto parking brake.
6. Check / adjust parking brake. I had need to adjust it up previously, so already done so to speak. The blue X10's I had to strip it down to clean and regrease, as it was seizing up, problee have to do same to this one at some point eventually...
7. Clean air filter? Couldn't be asked in the end, can't get good access without taking rear body panel off. So can wait until another day, as I doubt very much that it's urgent, I was only going to look at it anyway.
8. Inspect throttle control. Not sure what this means, unless yes, works OK, and cables look good. (?) Previously I had already taken out a lot of cable slack, which had made slow riding very "lurchy", i.e. lots of "kangaroo-ing" on small roundabouts etc.
9. Check tyre pressures and wear.
10. Check suspension and steering. See my post(s) in "Suspension Rant" (not my topic), re the 350 adjuster collars, these can seize up if not moved if so need lots of lube to free off, "exercise" them (wind up and down a few times) then wind up to max. preload to get access to the area beneath that's normally covered up at min. preload, and coat with grease. I have already done this so in perfick condition at the mo.
11. Check fasteners for tightness.
