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Author Topic: X8-125 water cooled, euro 3 battery  (Read 17005 times)
Pessimal
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« on: November 30, 2015, 12:19:45 »

well my bikes flattened its battery again, and this time it dosent seem to want to take any charge.

so could anyone confirm for me what battery this bike takes, every site i seem to visit suggests a different battery.

many thanks.
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Mike H
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« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2015, 16:47:35 »

If it's not taking a charge that usually means battery is scrap.

What is written on the original? That should be a clue plus its dimensions, find something that matches that.
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2015, 21:53:25 »

Most batteries are listed to a standard part format ie YB9L-A2 where 9 denotes the amperage/hr  L-wet cell and A- terminal posts nearest to you when fitted and 2- positive on the right or something like that. I'm sure a quick Google will produce this info more accurately.
Whatever your 125 battery is, past experience has proven that fitting a 14A/hr from an X9 500 is a worthwhile reliability upgrade. Yuasa YB14L-A2 is what you need but check it will fit first. On the X9 all battery compartments are the same so a bigger battery fits the smaller bikes but on the X8 I don't know if this is similar or not. Probably is.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
Pessimal
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« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2015, 22:29:13 »

Just pulled it out, its a Yuasa YB10L-BP.

Put the charger on it and its showing 4.3v, but drops to 3.4v when i try to charge it and the charger wont charge it as the voltage is then too low, ao i'm guessing thats scrap.

Just check the measurements of the YB14L-A2 and its width and length are ok, but its 20mm taller, so i dont think the battery cover would go on.

A workmate suggested a gel battery, are they worth springing the extra for?
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2015, 08:18:27 »

They have better power retention and higher CCA but the best reason for going 'gel' is total maintenance freedom.
Just avoid anything cheap. With batteries cheap often means rubbish. Try to find a brand made in Europe, Japan or the USA not China.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
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« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2015, 08:50:17 »

is Yuasa decent?

i'd normally go with a decent halfords battery, or something like exide or bosch in the car.

is it possible to re-activate(?) batteries with new acid or something, or does a low voltage kill them totally?
« Last Edit: December 01, 2015, 09:43:43 by Pessimal » Logged
Mike H
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« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2015, 10:42:54 »

is Yuasa decent?

Always used to be!

4.3 is definitely not right for a 12V batt, think it's got some duff cells.


http://www.yuasa.co.uk/yb10l-bp.html
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Pessimal
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« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2015, 16:55:53 »

my new battery has arrived with an acid pack, anyone got any hints, or is it a case of jump in and fill the battery with the acid?
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Mike H
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« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2015, 01:35:07 »

Wow never heard of that before. Had to look it up does this help?

http://www.atbatt.com/motorcycle-batteries/how-to-fill-and-charge-yuasa-ytx14-bs-motorcycle-battery

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allen m
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« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2015, 13:19:13 »

Hello
I got my new Yuasa battery from Halfords. (The 500cc size for my 125). It came with the acid in a bottle. I used a small funnel to help reduce the chance of spillage but not essential. I poured acid in until about 5mm below the maximum level mark in each cell. Then went round again and filled up to about 3mm. Refitted the caps and very gently shook to move any air bubbles, allowed to stand for about 5 minuets then shook again. Topped up to the max mark and fitted.
It has transformed the starting even when stood for 3 to 4 weeks.

Regards
Allen Morgan
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Allen Morgan. First time scooter rider (X9 Evo 125cc Imperial Blue 2006 reg) since January 2014 after being on Bikes from 50cc to 650cc since 1958 (and cars since 1962).
Mike H
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« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2015, 15:11:55 »

Just to be pedantic and point out the 'acid' (aka electrolyte) is 4 parts water. 

Will still make holes in your jeans tho.
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2015, 16:51:54 »

The conditioning charge after filling and settling is important to battery life. This bit is a long way down that linked page but not to be missed.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
Mike H
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« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2015, 21:21:36 »


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Pessimal
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« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2015, 11:09:38 »

The conditioning charge after filling and settling is important to battery life. This bit is a long way down that linked page but not to be missed.

oppssy

couldnt find a slow charge setting on my battery charger, so just let it charge.
took about 4 hours to charge on wednesday night, checked it again last night and it took charge for another 4 hours.
seems to be charge up to 14v now, will stick it on charge again tonight and see what it takes.

gonna have to get a waterproof plug and box for the trickle charger so i can plug it in after every use.

any suggestions whats best to get, and where from

many thanks
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2015, 13:55:10 »

As long as you reached the 14V mark it'll be fine now. Shouldn't need repeated charging if the bike is topping it up correctly during use.
Fit it and fire her up the with a volt meter measure across the terminals as you rev the engine with and without all the lights on. It shouldn't drop below 12v at idle or exceed 14.5v at high RPM, and if it does this then may be what killed your old battery. You should be able to see the headlight brighten up slightly as you rev the motor but they shouldn't goo all that dim either at idle or the regulator isn't feeding correct charge through.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
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« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2015, 15:03:21 »

As long as you reached the 14V mark it'll be fine now. Shouldn't need repeated charging if the bike is topping it up correctly during use.
Fit it and fire her up the with a volt meter measure across the terminals as you rev the engine with and without all the lights on. It shouldn't drop below 12v at idle or exceed 14.5v at high RPM, and if it does this then may be what killed your old battery. You should be able to see the headlight brighten up slightly as you rev the motor but they shouldn't goo all that dim either at idle or the regulator isn't feeding correct charge through.

hmmm, when i bought it, i had problem with the bike not charging due to corroded cabled on the regulator.
I got those repaired, but when they were checking it, the dealer said it shouldn't go over 13.3v with the bike running.

that sounded a bit low to me, i've always been told it should be about 14.4v on a car. should be bike charge at 13.3v or should it be more like 14v?
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #16 on: December 04, 2015, 16:14:15 »

Bikes run higher than cars. A car should not exceed 13.5V but a bike with a relatively crude stator and regulator/rectifier will nudge 14.5V but no more. This is why sometimes bulbs meant for cars don't last as long in bikes. The difference is Amperage. A car will produce, store and use 45Amps or even a lot more, but a bike tootles around with a 9amp battery on average and a charge rate of at most 5Amp. In some ways a bike is in ability, more like a 1956 Morris Minor with a 12V dynamo and a regulator than a modern Ford Focus with a 45A/hr alternator and battery.

On the 500's with the big ECU if the regulator fails and the charge rate exceeds 14.5V the ECU warning lamp lights up as soon as you rev the engine over 2-3000 rpm. If you don't replace the regulator quickly the battery boils dry and you then need a new one of those too.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
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« Reply #17 on: December 13, 2015, 13:15:55 »

New battery in, rode it into work and home again on monday (not the happiest ride ever, see post on windy riding the the general section), so 25 miles ridden, been to it this morning, battery at 2.8v and not taking charge.

I know batterys dont like cold weather, and i may not have charged it perfectly, but surley a battery should last more than 5 days???
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Dave Milnes
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« Reply #18 on: December 13, 2015, 14:15:16 »

Back to the regulator not charging then. Running a battery so low will damage it and you will do the same to this new one if the regulator or charging system is faulty.
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2004 X9 500 Evo in YELLOW - 2016 Maxsym 600i Sport
Anderton 2004, Pen-y-cae 2005, Matlock 2006, Hay on Wye 2007, Minehead 2008, St Florence 2010, Newent 2011, North Kyme 2012, Betsw-y-coed 2013, Hardraw 2014, Parkend 2015, Whitby 2016, Mundesley 2017, Derby 2018, Telford 2019, Loch Doon 2020, Cumbria 2021.
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