Latest Purchase X9 Evo 500 2005 reg

[james_death]

I had the regulator unscrewed from the backing plate the other day while i painted some more of the frame and the mounting plate.

Wires seamed ok only disconnected the cable to the battery and re connected.

The temp gauge needle is indeed not fully to the bottom it is slightly risen, the rev needle sits dead on the bottom.

Tick over looks to be about 17k with odd blip to about 18k.

Now which rectifiers will work?

Is it a case most bike rectifiers will work? just mainly down to connectors?

[james_death]

Oh the battery read 12.3 volts and on tickover rose to about 13 volts and when revved to about 4k was 16 then 17 volts and rising so turned off.

[james_death]

Spotted these...

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/RR10.html

I know M&P list theres on flea bay for similar price, but since they stole my credit card details a good while back im loath to use them.

That was an employee actually using my card details to pay for them to get to work...Geeez.

[Dave Milnes]

The RR850 for the Aprillia Atlantic is what you want ideally although you can adapt any that uses a three phase input whether it has 2 or 4 output wires but you would need to loop to all 4 wires in the bikes loom.
The price has dropped too, it was £118 a month ago.

[james_death]

Oh thanks Dave... So thats a straight plug in job then?

From same company? Ordered Now... ::::

The other universal one was cheaper and cheaper special delivery unless royal snail has put them up today....

Mind should just plug straight in...

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=rr850&ACTION=Search&PR=-1&TB=A

Anyway ordered online as even over the phone would not get dispatched today.

So should be with me Thursday.

Grand Total £104.82 With Delivery....

Stil dont know what im looking for concerns the Stand buzzer.

I removed the non functioning ram when i had all the panels off etc, but had the buzzing before the removal.

Think i need to look up a diagram....

Hope the rectifier sorts the engine management light and saves the battery.

Certainly hope the couple of items that sold on ebay get paid for as certainly need the money towards paying teh credit card bill that will follow the rectifier purchase.

[james_death]

Well the oil wrench turned up yesterday ( Laser Part 3882 ) 76mm x 12 flutes...

Went for ordering from amazon as i know ill get it well pretty sure anyway.... ::

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3882-Filter-Wrench-Flutes/dp/B0032O34OA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357817421&sr=8-1

The new exhaust seal and clamp also.... From fleabay...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXHAUST-PIPE-to-SILENCER-CLAMP-SEAL-for-PIAGGIO-X9-500-cc-/190780620644?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c6b693f64

The Rectifier should turn up today.

Have been laid off work for today at least... as im only agency so hope to faff with the x9.

Tried the analogue clock reset but they sit back at the wrong positions so looks like the dash has been off at some point and cocks out of line or whatever.

Well since i had virtually all body panels off before most stuff has had the screws replaced and the bolts, these all been the ones for body panels etc.

Parts all from screwfix apart from the ones that fasten the running boards they were replaced with some for landrovers that i used to hold the under tray on the rover 75.

Here they are...

Running board clips and bolts... These are large flat head you will still need something like penny washer under them to get a good coverage of the plastic panels. I used Wickes round washer m6x30mm as they are just at the bottom of the road.

Only need 4 scres and washers really as the rear ones use long bolts for the foot rests.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220729777365?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Here are the screwfix bits...

M6 x 20mm bolts A2 stainless if you can find A4 stainless there even better as they are marine environment grade. Any ways the majority of one syou will replace will be 16mm that screwfix do sell but they had no stock when i arrived despite reserving then again it had said one pack in stock and theft and system errors prevail everywhere.

Anyway here are the M6 x 20mm...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/socket-button-screws-a2-stainless-steel-m6-x-20mm-pack-of-50/25864

Some washers for them...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/flat-washers-a2-stainless-steel-m6-pack-of-100/15343

Screws are self tapping stainless 3/4" x 8 either screwfix...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/panhead-self-tappers-8-x-pack-of-100/14452?_requestid=886547

Or tool station...

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Steel+Screws/Stainless+Self+Tapping+Pan+Head+Pozi+34+x+8/d90/sd810/p91265

Washers were from screwfix...M5 stainless...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/a2-stainless-steel-flat-washers-m5-pack-of-100/29763?_requestid=889304

Hope this helps folks looking for screws etc oh you need the washers for the screws to get more nearer the head coverage of the standard screws.

OOOOO my rectifier has arrived.

Wiull have to find teh thread that i mentioned how much oil i had put in the forks to know how much more to go..... Doh.

[james_death]

Ok Had to go out for other jobs today but got the rectifier on...

The cables are shorter than the x9.

Comparison...

Old Rectifier... Long Cable.. 630mm to the start of the connector.
New Rctifier... Long Cable.. 590mm to the start of the Connector this will just reach but have to unclip the connector from its frame mount under the seat.

Short Cable...

Old... 255mm
New.. 175mm is again long enough.

Now have constant 14.3 reading on multimeter no alteration as the revs rise and no engine light....

[Dave Milnes]

Pull the brown connector through so it is visible under the side panel rather than attached to the engine swing mount. I have done that with mine so the connector isn't in the heat above the engine. A previous one melted due to getting very hot as a result of a poor connection and high resistance. As it's warm in there grease in the plug just dried out, but moving the plug outside of the main frame tubes cured this.

[james_death]

Good idea Dave.

Thought about the heat myself, however its not possible as the cable only just reaches no freeplay of cable im afraid.

[Dave Milnes]

There should be loads of spare cable on the stator side of the plug. Mine reaches right across and under the frame tube and partway back down the side towards the regulator. The loom from the stator coil is a lot longer than need to reach to the point where the connector clips to the arm.
It may be tied up somewhere further along, or it's been shortened due to a plug melting, and a new connector fitted.

[julian]

Regarding the clocks. Remove them, undo the screws on the back and the needles should just unclip then clip back into position as you push them back on to reposition them. They are quite loose which is why they often move over time or if the bike has even a low speed or stationary tumble.

[Dave Milnes]

Yes, don't just turn them or they will set wrong again. Pull them off connect the dash and do several resets then carefully without turning the spindles push the needles back on, do a couple more resets to make sure they are all perfect, then reasssemble.

[james_death]

Thanks gents,

Ill have to remove the panels again and check other side but dont think i have much play on that side but will check.

Thanks for the clock tips.

On another point i have fancied the givi screen and putting hand on top of the standard screen that i have at full height makes me want one more for the reduced wind noise.

I may try cutting up the majesty screen i puchased many years ago thinking to try on the Leonardo 250 i had.

Think i may well cut the end bars off the hand guards i purchased a good while back as having ones that just connect to the bar ends would be simplest having cut others up before and ended up having to throw them as didnt work.

[james_death]

Hoped to get scoot fully sorted today but only got chance to wire up the service reset button and re align the dash needles.

Still does not seam right with the temp one as most of the time it only sweeps to about 2 possibly 3 past half way and only twice after many attempts has it risen into the red and then only about half way into the red so wonder if there is slipping on the cog or whatever?

Oh well.

[julian]

The real test is what happens in use. The temp gauge should quickly move to a little above half way and ideally should stay there in normal operation. Should the temperature rise the fan should cut in about one tick into the red and quickly bring the temperature out of the red where the fan should cut out.

[Dave Milnes]

You have to be really careful when pushing the needles on. Press too far and they bind against the facia.

[james_death]

Considered the binding was very careful and and pretty much every time it never reaches the red when doing the resets.

The weird thing was the times it went into the red i had not removed again out of about 10 removals and some 40 tests only twice did it go into the red and then not all the way.

Just a case of trying it out i suppose.

Thanks as ever folks.

[julian]

From memory, I don't think the fuel and temeprature needles went the full way round the clocks on our 500s when they were reset, which is why I mentioned that the real test is how they operate in practice.

[james_death]

Appreciated, the fuel gauge goes all the way to the top now with full tank rather than 3/4 mark with a full tank... ::

On yet another side note concerning the air filter element is it the ..K&N Part number:  33-2092 that fits the 500 Evo???

[poldark]

Why not buy this and trim to fit, it can't be that tricky if I can manage it.

Saves loads of dosh, very high quality pre-oiled material, plus (no doubt my imagination) but was much faster afterwards!!!   

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-Air-Filter-Foam-Large-Scooter-Motorcycle-Quad-/271111301687?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f1f7e2a37

[james_death]

Why not buy this and trim to fit, it can't be that tricky if I can manage it.

Saves loads of dosh, very high quality pre-oiled material, plus (no doubt my imagination) but was much faster afterwards!!!   

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-Air-Filter-Foam-Large-Scooter-Motorcycle-Quad-/271111301687?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f1f7e2a37

Very interesting... so do you only need the foam?

I see they do a more expensive one with some stainless mesh i presume is to add more rigidity..?

Is the foam sturdy enough to not need the metal mesh to support it in the evo's air box?

Thanks for the post.

[Dave Milnes]

33-2092 VW polo jetta is the one for the 500. I've used them since 2005. Oil them with car red auto transmission fluid (TQF) and clean and re-oil every couple of years.

The thing that bothers me about the foam is how does it clamp into the filter casing. THe standard type filters have a big rubber lip that fits into a groove and is clamped by the two halves so no air can bypass the filter. This foam has no such method of sealing around the edge. If it isn't air tight, it isn't filtering so how did you get round this?

[poldark]

The thing that bothers me about the foam is how does it clamp into the filter casing. THe standard type filters have a big rubber lip that fits into a groove and is clamped by the two halves so no air can bypass the filter. This foam has no such method of sealing around the edge. If it isn't air tight, it isn't filtering so how did you get round this?

Well perhaps it's different on the 500, but on my 250 Evo the rubber seal is between the two halves of the plastic outer casing & the "filter" itself was just plain foam, so I replaced like-for-like.

I did trim the foam to be slightly oversized, so it was compressed a little on the outer edges to help it remain in-situ and seal well.  There's a single spindle the goes right through the foam and a series of spikes that touch the foam to hold it in place, so I'm pretty confident it isn't going anywhere and is as well sealed as the original - famous last words!

[silverbonce]

I went to buy a new filter and oil for my 250 evo from Kegra Scooters Essex and they told me that it is no longer necessary to oil the filter,,so i bought just the foam filter for £6 0dd. was this info correct ??
The original foam was more like a white Latex foam but the replacement is black with a more honeycomb effect.

[james_death]

Oh Dave you were right about the cabling for the rectifier, it had actually been doubled over and hidden under the under seat tray so thats moved the conector out of the heat.

Been laid of work yet again and at minimum wage moneys tight but the ram air foam i cant see it been suitable for the 500 to much risk of flex i think, so will be the K&N when funds allow.