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Graham 

Another session of dismantling and cleaning, then re-assemble and very careful setting of sensor clearances.

Yay!

I made it all the way around the test route without the warning lights coming on!

Sorted (fingers crossed)

This offer is still on, other sizes available too at M&P direct

Unfortunately the 500 doesn't have finger screws so complete removal seems to be the easiest way. At this rate by the time I find all the short cuts it will be time to trade/sell!

FWIW: on the 350 I managed to get the lid off the air filter by attacking the finger screws from above(internal access panel removed) or below (me lying down with some good torches to see what's there), whichever drew the least blood.
I managed to replace the rear shocks just by removing the exhaust & those two big round plugs in the rear of the underseat bucket (just don't do both at once   )

Two things I remember from the owner's manual and service manual: A. ABS has to be recalibrated to keep track with tyre wear, a change in the relative circumferences of F & R tyres will throw an error; B. the distance between the slotted wheel and the ABS sensor is critical, only a very small margin of error else bad pick-up signal.

Gonna have to check it all again but it'll have to wait 'til Tuesday before I have time.

Just wondering though, calibration requires everything to be working, right? And the lights came on at almost exactly the same point on my test circuit. So, if the calibration is out, how long does it take the system to register the fact? It shouldn't be straight away or you'd not be able to do the initial part of the calibration ........... hmmmmmm

Still not sure why it should be out of calibration but we'll see.

Because its intermittent and affects both ABS and ASR the suggestions about sensors and sensor rings do seem to be most likely. Are the wheel bearings OK? If one of the wheels gets sloppy when everything warms up it might put the clearances out. The ASR could also be affected by tyre pressure and possibly even the ABS if the tyre warms up through being soft and then the pressure rises with temperature. You could also check the sensors by comparing the resistance of front and rear although intermittent electrical issues can be very hard to pin down. Incidentally its not unusual for the rear brake to get hotter than the front in normal riding. Rear brakes are often under-specified on scooters because the weight distribution means they get more work than on a motorcycle and they don't get as much cooling air either.

Have a look at my past post " OK, now this- ASR and ABS light constantly on! "  in April last year. I had bent the ABS sensor which resulted in both the ABS and ASR light permanently on. Mike H gave me the idea to check the sensor, but I can remember how difficult getting those bloody hex bolts off that seemed to be made from cheese! If you can get the sensor wheel off, place it on a flat surface and check it's level. New ones from Easyparts http://www.easyparts.nl/  cost 17.50 euro's not including delivery. It's worthwhile getting new bolts as I'm sure by the time you get the old one's off the sensor they'll be buggered!

Graham

"If you do try to remove the shared rear disc/ABS sensor ring bolts please take care as they are small allen heads which strip easily."


Hmm, I hate ALL mushroom headed allen bolts almost as much as I hate the bolts that hold the brake pads to the X10 calipers

Mushroom heads always use a size smaller allen socket than a standard bolt which is bound to cause trouble. I've replaced quite a few on my Moto Guzzi with full sized cheese heads allen bolts where I can.