Recent Posts

Bikes done another almost 2k and so far no issues, hopefully that's the end of it 

Probably best to leave the rear until Spring, but get the quotes and book it in as they raise prices for such stuff when the time of year everyone starts such jobs. Like bikes, you buy them now and sell in the Spring for best prices.
I bet the house actually groaned with relief when you got some of the stuff out of the loft back into the workshop!
By the time of the annual bash next May it'll look like you have been there for years.

Gravel went two weeks ago and the shed and summerhouse have been up 9 days. New windows and doors fitted and finished last Friday so the outside is looking great. Haven't had time to do much decorating yet but most of the other jobs are slowly getting crossed off the list, hopefully get the side porch/carport up next weekend will be leaving the rear veranda and decking until the spring though now.
Having to spend time this week on the bikes as they have been a little neglected while everything else has been going on, SL needs MOTing and the Evo wants a good fettle so it can be used for most of the winter (it has the best heated grips! ) Should get them both sorted on my day off Thursday.

Bob

I was wondering how you were getting on with the important job of getting the workshop sorted. I bet you have nearly finished all the jobs around the house by now.
Have you got rid of that 6ft deep gravel yet?

On the journey back from Taunton on the Evo, at the end of July, I started to notice a slight problem with the linked brake, it would give a lot of movement on first pull but then after a pump or two be firm again. Having then only used the Evo for a few days to get to work before reverting back to the SL over the last couple of months I thought nothing much more of it.
The MOT on the SL ran out last week and, with the house move, lack of a workshop/garage and not having the time to get it ready (it has a small steering notch) I have had to revert back to the Evo this week.
Needless to say, the problem hasn't gone away. With no tail tell pulsing from a warped disk, I assumed it was some slight play in the front wheel forcing the pads apart and had planned a front end rebuild for this coming Thursday with new wheel bearings, fork seals (there is slight misting) and some heavier fork oil, as the 7.5W has never really felt right.
Anyway, coming home yesterday, at one point when I applied the brake it felt like it was the rear that wasn't performing and not the front so I carefully completed the last mile or so home without applying the linked brake so that I could see what the pads were doing.
Having found 5 minutes today to take a look at the pads, it was obvious that it was the rear ones that where apart and not the front so I investigated further only to find that the rear wheel was quite loose on the spindle. I can only assume that when I changed the rear tyre earlier in the year, I failed to tighten it up fully as when I removed the split pin and nut hold cap the nut was barely finger tight.
All tight again now so just the front end to rebuild (in by now fully erected new workshop) and the Evo might actually feel stable again. Hopefully I will get time to change the headstock bearing on the SL and get it back on the road as well.

Bob

Hi Graham,
the original was specific for X10 350, the chineese one is declared as "universal" but I think  not to exceed 500-600cc because of its small size.
[/quote]

Cheers for that, I still think the noise could come from the tyres though.. The X10 is getting used less and less now, now that the days are getting shorter- soon time to lay her up over the winter period, time to dig out the battery trickle charger!
Graham ;-)

Hi Mike,
the original muffler is OK, no rattling inside.
I think it is a frequency resonance problem.





Hi Graham,
the original was specific for X10 350, the chineese one is declared as "universal" but I think  not to exceed 500-600cc because of its small size.

Normal. A good thermostat should warm up in a very short time to at least the mid point on the gauge. Temp will rise when idling but as long as the fan cuts in it is fine. A hot 500 is a good motor, a cold running one is prone to oil pump failure which is terminal.
You might find after a bit of use it settles slightly. Try removing the filler cap when the engine is cold, check the level as any air not bled out will have evacuated into the bottle and the level will have dropped. The coolant should just be visible down the tube inside the filler neck. Don't overfill it and make sure the cap is nipped.

Hey,

So I bled my x9 (attached a transparent tube between the bleed valve and the reservoir) and ran it. Couldn't see any bubbles in the tube so no air in the system. I checked the oil levels too-all good.
The problem I'm having is that during normal riding (bike moving) the temp gauge sits at half a mark over halfway. If I've been riding for say 20-30 mins and stop in traffic it starts to rise quite quickly in my opinion (2-3 marks above halfway). I do a lot of stop-start riding in central London but it can get up to a mark or two below red (fan clicks on for the radiator). This doesn't seem normal? Anything else I can look at? Or is this behaviour par for the course? Thanks in advance!