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 on: September 20, 2020, 18:42:56 
Started by BobbyW - Last post by Peter T
Coppermine is telling me that i've exceeded my disc quota so I have to summarise this with only one photo.

Here goes:

Remove the cover next to the left lever, this reveals the brake reservoir. My SL had the comms control unit there.

Remove the two screws and the lid, this reveals a rubber concertina thingy which seals the reservoir and keeps the fluid free from air moisture. remove this carefully and have an absorbent rag handy. Paint really doesn't like brake fluid.

Under here you'll find the fluid. A transparent turkey baster is good for sampling it and checking condition and, if the fluid is brown the baster can be used to get as much out as you can. Keep it in a jar for disposal later, you'll need the jar soon. Once the reservoir is empty you can wipe out residual crud and add fresh Dot 4  fluid. Replace the rubber concertina or the fluid will squirt out when you try to bleed the brakes.

You should do the rear caliper first but I've only got a pic of the front.

Locate the bleed nipple (ooer Matron) It's the nut with a rubber cap (ooer Matron)

Next you need to create a set up like this:

Make sure you have the correct sized combo spanner or you're guaranteed to round off the nipple. Fit the spanner first then attach the tube. Its easy to snap the nipple off so place your little finger at the open end of the spanner and your thumb at the ring end to give more sensitivity when you first crack the seal. Quarter of a turn should be enough to release the brake fluid into the tube.

The tube you see in the pic is one of these:


(others are available)

If you now pump the brake lever repeatedly, the fluid will come out in spurts (matron) If the brakes haven't been bled for a while, the fluid will be brown, like coffee and you will probably get bubbles in the tube. This is what is making the lever spongy because the air compresses in the brake line, nice clean fluid won't. You might not get bubbles at first but sometimes they hide, keep trying. The valve in the bleed kit stops the air and coffee from being drawn back into the caliper. Every five or six pumps of the lever, check inside the reservoir and top up the fluid or you'll end up pumping air in which kind of defeats the object. The job is done when the fluid runs clear and there are no more bubbles. Tighten up the nipple (little finger at the open end so you don't overdo it) At some point the tube will miss the jar and squirt you in the groin and you'll jump and knock the jar over onto your favourite suede loafers and you'll say rude things. Be prepared for this inevitability.

Now (having done the rear first) do the front. When you're happy with that, top up a final time and replace the reservoir lid and cover. Now check the other front calliper (right hand lever)

You can do this job with a simple length of plastic tube and no bleed valve but it needs more patience and probably an assistant unless you have orangutan arms like me. An old battery breather tube is about right for the Job.

The process is the same but requires you to open and close the nipple to prevent air returning into the system.

We'll do this by numbers as it's important to get the sequence right

1. Pull the lever.
2. Open the nipple and wait for the fluid/bubbles to stop.
3. Close the nipple
4. Release the brake lever.

Repeat the process checking the reservoir level as you go.

If you can persuade an assistant to do the lever work whilst you do the spannering it helps a lot. Make your instructions to pull/release/check level clear and be nice or they won't help again.

And that's about it.      

Oooh... If you've been through this and you're still not happy that the brakes are really firm: Try wrapping a bungee tight around the brake lever and leaving it overnight. I don't know why it works but it sometimes does.

Ooh... and dispose of the crap in the jar in an environmentally sound manner. Get rid of the extra fluid too as it absorbs moisture from the air rendering it unfit to use.

Hope that helps.

 on: September 20, 2020, 16:23:15 
Started by BobbyW - Last post by Peter T
Damn... Until this morning I had an SL I could have taken pics of  And, come to think of it, I think the caliper is on the wrong side to bleed with the wheel off which doesn't help. I'll sort some pics out this evening as I can't find a definitive guide to bleeding the linked brakes here. I may not be looking in the right places of course.

I sympathise greatly with your need to disconnect the whole exhaust... Tough break.

Try a little square of black tape over the offending warning light until you manage to fix it.

 on: September 20, 2020, 11:55:34 
Started by BobbyW - Last post by BobbyW

Your brake lines are probably full of brown gunge. Can I post you a guide to bleeding? it's a lot easier to bleed the back if the back wheel is off, then you could replace the valve

Thanks Peter, I've ordered the forks and yes please I'd appreciate a bleed guide. By post do you mean email, snail mail or online post ?

I say wheel off is a nightmare because I have the non split replacement exhaust which means removal from the cylinder rather than just the silencer.
The fuel gauge problem is not affecting me, I run on the trip meter and always top up after 100 miles, It's the amber fuel light constantly illuminated that annoys the tester (he's a bit of a jobsworth)

 on: September 20, 2020, 11:35:33 
Started by Paul123 - Last post by Mike H
Just a note, this type of thing has come up on the BSA Bantam forum (I'm now a member) fairly often, I remember there was a warning, the ally box is quite small, so needs to be bolted/screwed to a substantial piece of metal as a heatsink, the box is not a big enough heatsink on its own.

 on: September 20, 2020, 11:15:22 
Started by BobbyW - Last post by Peter T
First off every time I get a "front forks misting" advisory.


Your brake lines are probably full of brown gunge. Can I post you a guide to bleeding? it's a lot easier to bleed the back if the back wheel is off, then you could replace the valve

Fuel light isn't an MOT issue and gauges are a very new fangled extravagance anyway. I rode my SL 5000 miles with no idea how much fuel was in. I did top it up every now and again to be fair. 

 on: September 20, 2020, 10:48:16 
Started by BobbyW - Last post by BobbyW
Having cleared the spiders out, washed her down and checked the tyres, I went for a short spin on the 250sl.
She started straight away and I had an enjoyable 15 minutes.
The MoT is due in November and I have my doubts as to her getting through.
First off every time I get a "front forks misting" advisory.
I just can't do that job myself or afford a garage to do it which is why it's been the same for 3 tests.
Then I have "tyre valves perished"
Rear wheel off on the 250sl is a nightmare.
Now I have a soft left hand brake lever (almost to the bars) and (sorry, I was mistaken Bob, no brake light) or starter on the left lever... right is fine.
The fuel light remains on and the gauge is showing empty.
To be honest, much as I love the old girl, I'm considering parking her on the front lawn and using her as a planter

 on: September 18, 2020, 16:06:51 
Started by Paul123 - Last post by ronoc88
I now this is an old one but im just wondering if your chinese regulator did the job. i have a similar issue at the moment.

 on: September 18, 2020, 07:26:59 
Started by Peter T - Last post by Peter T
Brilliant. I copied the gallery links into your original thread in Mods.

 on: September 18, 2020, 07:21:29 
Started by Peter T - Last post by Dave Milnes
Have a look here, it's simply removing the inlet rubber tube and opening up the outer hole to accept a larger inlet tube made from a pipe removed elsewhere and fitted the opposite way around and cut short so it isn't pressing against the transmission casing.
If it does anything it makes part throttle opening a little more instant rather than an overall increase in performance. No extra noise.

 on: September 17, 2020, 19:47:58 
Started by Peter T - Last post by Peter T
Thanks Dave, the numbers match an ad on ebay but your amazon filter is £8 cheaper. Only one remaining...

Do you remember posting pics of other mods in the air box? Was there a significant improvement?

Edit: Bought.

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