Recent Posts

Thanks for the reply

It's the oil pressure relief valve. Get this right onassembly or you won't have any oil pressure!
The main oil gallery from the pump to the filter runs around the front edge of the cover (near the filter) and the excess pressure valve is part of this channel.

 In response to to your earlier advice Dave, I'll give these suggestions a try and let you know thanks
Andy

Hi all,
Can somebody help me I have replaced the stator  but there is a spring and collect about 4" away from the stator,  I have looked into see what this does but can't find out?
Does anybody know if it needs to be put back or can it be left off?

Julian

I wouldn't repair, I would replace all the damaged parts. Solo is the 125 expert who has tackled this before.
I would suggest when assembling these pumps that less torque when tightening the studs and use a thread lock. Overtightening causes stresses to form where the threaded part enlarges into the stud body as there isn't enough radius at the fillet.
Have a google around and see if anyone has produced any improvement kits of parts for these engines as this is a common problem.

Hello, riders, I'm once again asking for your help / opinion.

I went for a ride to city center to run some errands. Came back to my X9, started it up and as I was about to get back on road, i heard loud knocking in water pump cover. As i had disassembled it before, i knew that the thing going wild in there most likely is one of the water pump drive pins. I had no choice but to keep going, because I couldn't afford to get someone with trailer to come get it and pushing it home was out of question (tunnels, bridges etc.). Got home (with multiple stops to cool down engine) and drained cooling fluid, took of the cover and saw the massacre that the pin had caused.




I don't remember exactly how i removed the broken pins from flywheel last time one of them broke, however, i remember it having something to do with dark magic. So my question to you all is, does anyone have any tips to remove the broken bolts?
In the fourth picture you can see that the hole, where the water pump drive pin screws are, is messed up (that's probably why it fell out). No idea how the hole became like that tho. Would it be okay to replace only 2 pins? Any idea how to fix the stretched out hole?

Thanks!
Krišs

Thanks Dave I'll try that.

No I didnt Dave, it was slightly rushed due to Covid, and  when I arrived at the Vendors house near Rochester Kent,we squeezed the Nexis into my iccle Kangoo/roo van,which was its last journey with a bike onboard- with the passenger seat down I actually drove it all the way to Inverness with my thumping great Great Cagiva Raptor 1000 aboard,(the one I had actually ridden to and from the NW 200 the previous week)to do the NC500,and then over to the IOM with a little 50cc Aprilia Tuono aboard -65 MPH down hill on the Mountain course, interesting playing tunes on the 6 speed box on the ascent.

Yep what I thought was a screech from the water pump turned out to be the old Dynamo, and as luck would have it a guy nearby had a brand new one he had found surplus to requirements, I got for £30.
However part of the problem with the Viva electrics, were down to the last time I had used it, circa late September 201,I found the top bolt on the starter motor loose, tightened it up but it must have gone scew wiff, and a new solonoid later -probably nothing wrong with the old press button type , but the bayonets are bigger, and some joins on the ignition wires were brittle and broke off, so its connected on a wing and a prayer currently-no pun intended, to the voltage regulator which with an alternator is redundant, thanks for the advices.
 

Gav, sounds like the connectors to the rear of the dash panels may need a clean. The back of the dash area is a mess of wiring on a Nexus so everything to check is in one place. A lot of circuits 'pass through' the dash.
The red master key should operate just like the normal key other than the immobiliser flash on switching on is slightly different. If yours won't turn in the ignition barrel I suspect it isn't the one that belongs the bike. The cut of the key should be the same. Did you not test it when you bought it?

On the Viva, is the dynamo regulator one of the two bobbin Lucas types? There is an easy way to convert to an alternator using the same wires as go to the dynamo now. You simply remove some of the thicker wires and join them together and add a loop between a couple of other terminals. I did it many years ago on my Morris Minor and it was dead easy. I'm sure a google search will find out the requirements.

If you follow the live wire from the dipped headlights, it goes to the dip switch then to the top 7.5A fuse (No8) which is fed from one of the main relays at the back near the regulator. The wiring on an X9 is very dependent on the relays as some activate other circuits which use relays to piggy back to feed other circuits, so I would start by checking all the fuses under the seat and in the glovebox as these are easiest to access, then remove and clean the connectors on the relays at the back and also the plug in loom to the main starter relay next to the battery. Only remove these relays one at a time as they look identical but inwardly they are not so need to stay in their own sockets.
If that doesn't work then remove the front panel and check the relays in there and especially the yellow diode pack as this has a big effect on relay operation.
Whatever it is the problem can't be much as the bike starts and runs so the brake lights must be OK.