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 1 
 on: March 25, 2025, 09:58:28 
Started by sinky - Last post by Dave Milnes
If there is no starter motor activity when you press the button, then something in the 'lock out' must still be active. Kill switch, brake light switches, side stand as if all these are clear the starter will at least spin the engine over then only the immobiliser can stop it starting.
Even tough you bypassed the side stand, water may have got in and re-applied the cut off.
Check that both brake levers turn on the brake lights. Sometimes your 'favourite' lever fails but it will start when using the other.
One thing, where you are it won't take long to dry out.

 2 
 on: March 25, 2025, 09:38:44 
Started by sinky - Last post by RobShed
Dave Milnes is your man on here. I suggest you pm him.

 3 
 on: March 14, 2025, 11:47:43 
Started by sinky - Last post by sinky
Hello. Your help please

X9 200 Evo

My bike has been outside in the rain  Spain .It's been non stop and very heavy.
Lots and lots of rain.

It won't start. It has all electrics working as normal no problem apart from nothing when you press the starter.


Any clues please.

Iv cleaned the relay ,kill switch with contact cleaner. Nothing.
All fuses good .gloves box and under seat.
Side stand has been bypassed years ago. Battery newish and fully charged.

Brake light is working so the only thing left is the lever switches that iv not touched or cleaned.
  All lights and dash is working as normal.
 Immobiliser light as normal.

Apart from lever switches  can you think of anything else?
I'm baffled.   Is it just a case of letting it dry out .Time.

Thanks in advance

 4 
 on: March 09, 2025, 23:48:23 
Started by Solo - Last post by Solo
The X9 has a friend at night time, keeping it company 



 5 
 on: August 13, 2024, 08:55:23 
Started by sinky - Last post by spannerman
Lovely, enjoy it.

 6 
 on: August 12, 2024, 06:36:42 
Started by KrekerisLV - Last post by Dave Milnes
Glad to hear it's sorted.

 7 
 on: August 11, 2024, 10:53:59 
Started by KrekerisLV - Last post by KrekerisLV
Hello!

I managed to sort it out. You were right, it was the carburetor. Before that, I cleaned out the fuel pump vacuum mesh as it was quite dirty, but that didn't work. Turns out I had a carburetor from a 180cc engine after all. Luckily, I had a carburetor from a 125cc engine, and I cleaned it and put it on. Now everything works great, and I can squeeze out about 110 km/h, which will be fine for this summer. In winter, I will probably take the engine apart and replace the cylinder gaskets and piston ring as well as adjust the valves.

Thank you, Dave! 

 8 
 on: August 10, 2024, 13:23:20 
Started by sinky - Last post by sinky
Hello. 2023 x9 200 Evo 80000km .

New itv/MOT today no advisories
  2 year ticket
What a machine πŸŽ‰πŸŽ‰πŸ‘ŒπŸΌπŸ‘ŒπŸΌ

 9 
 on: August 10, 2024, 12:27:44 
Started by KrekerisLV - Last post by Dave Milnes
Definitely a carb/fuel problem. Is this carb the type with a rubber diaphragm, in which case try changing this. They do perish and this uses the inlet manifold vacuum to control the amount the metering needs rises so it meters the fuel smoothly to engine demand. When you open the throttle when on the stand and the engine isn't under load it goes to zero vacuum straight away and the needle will lift fully and quickly.
It sound like a thermal issue so it has to be something that changes with temperature. The rubber diaphragm could be perished and when hot is either holed, cracked or just too 'floppy' or something else that meters a richer fuel supply when cold is possibly not turning off and so over fuelling the hot engine.
Has the carb got one of those electric choke devices in which case remove it and test it off the bike to see if it moves. You may have set up the carb to compensate for this not working so it starts and runs well when cold but is way too rich once hot.
Not being able to start until it's stood and evaporated the excess fuel and the plug has dried is a typical symptom of over rich flooding.
Do you still have the carb from the original engine? Try putting that on.

 10 
 on: August 09, 2024, 14:00:39 
Started by KrekerisLV - Last post by KrekerisLV
Hello, Dave, thank you for reply and advice!

I checked the transmission rollers just in case and they are all going smoothly. I also changed the fuel and vacuum tubes since they might've had cracks somewhere from sitting for 2 years.

What I failed to mention in my original post is that the issue with limited revs only occurred when motor and transmission was warmed up. I could go to the city (~15 km) and on the way there everything was okay - could go full throttle with no rev limit, but on the way back I could only go up to 7000 RPM.

I realized that when installing the new engine I didn't clean out carburetor (although I had plugged all openings before storing it). So I cleaned it and now I have a new problem. When accelerating past 7000ish RPM engine suddenly starts to cut out but this time it dies fully instead of 'restarting' when I close throttle. I can make it run with stuttering for some time by rapidly opening and closing throttle (probably using the little spray pump on carburetor). After letting the bike sit for a minute I can start it again. On center stand there is no such issue - I can rev it up to about 10000 RPM (at least that's what the tachometer shows) easily and engine runs fine.

Could it be a bad carburetor or the rotor/stator assembly? I'm a little lost 

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