X9 Owners & Riders Club

OK, I'm going to have to change the rear tyre on my X10, I reckon I've got about a month to go. The question is- Has anybody taken thier rear wheel off for a tyre change? If so, How hard/easy is it to do? I get it that you have to start with the exhaust, which looks fairly straight forward, but after that...
I've taken the rear wheel off a GTS which was easy, I'm guessing by the design, that you would have to start at the exhaust side.
It's times like this that I wished Haynes produced a workshop manual for the X10= I asked the question when I bought the scoot, but I was told that there are no plans to produce one yet..
Graham  :)

There is one in the Manuals section on here.
It should be very similar to the X9 only easier as you don't have shockers in the way...remove silencer, undo hub nut and 2 nuts onto crankcase, pull off trailing arm, undo wheel bolts, remove wheel.
Do it on the centre stand and if the bike is likely to tipple rearwards put a chock under the transmission at the rear.

Didn't have any problems changing my tyre. The brake callipers need to be taken off and there are numerous cable clips on the support arm but no need to disturb the hydraulic pipe connections. As usual make sure you know where/how the spacers on the axle stub go back. I did try to remove the brake pads for a clean up but the pins were seized. When the pads need replacement I may have to cut them out if the magic spray hasn't freed them up.

They use blue loctite on the pad pins threads, You need to buy a good quality 5mm alan socket to stand any chance of moving the pins.I had to buy a long reach one to get at the Deauville Nissin pin at the rear caliper, and I use it to get at the Beverly pins WITHOUT removing anything.
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-HEX-KEY-BIT-ALLEN-Socket-10mm-Hex-Drive-75mm-long-/161163885627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25861dbc3b

The first time I removed the back wheel took about one and a half hours second time 50 minutes. You may have to deflate the tyre to release it but strangely enough it will go back in inflated. Remove exhaust, undo hub nut, remove caliper, release shock absorber, remove swing arm once hub nut removed then slide wheel off the drive shaft.

Also parking brake caliper needs removing.

Wheel nut can be quite tight, as a trial freeing exercise I used the usual 1 metre long extendible socket wrench for car wheel nuts, and, interestingly, the parking brake could hold the wheel! (On the blue one I shoved a bar through the spokes.)

I recommend while caliper is off to remove copper grease and replace the pad pins. In fact Brembo grease around the pistons as well. In fact, repeat this twice more for the front calipers too.

The wheel nut locking split pin is 4mm dia. in case you want to get spares. By 35mm long I think.

Looks like blue paint to me!  :D

2 Allen bolts (no studs)


After removing the right shock lower mounting and both brake calipers (2nd being parking brake), 6 bolts I think.



No further "wheel bolts" that I'm aware of. Should just slide off the spindle.

:D


Qualifier: this is for the 125 / 350 unit, no idea about 500 version.

You're right the X10 doesn't have the hub with bolts like the X9, the centre nut with single spacer is all there is, but unlike the X9 the brake calliper has to be lifted off as the disc is bolted to the wheel not part of the hub. Why they changed the design into this much less conventional model I don't know apart from making brake servicing simpler and easier.

They also changed the engine mounting into a much less beefy system now full of tiny bearings and plastic spacers that looks to me like a recipe for failure like 125 models. The old X9 500 design looked like Brunel engineered it to last for 100's of years, and they never failed.

Sounds fairly straight forward then, I'll tackle it when I next get a weekend free, and report my progress!  :thumbup:
Graham